ModernJeweler.com |

Jewelry designer Leila Tai specializes in one of the most difficult jewelry-making techniques to master: plique à jour enameling. Cells of metal without a back are meticulously filled with shades of vitreous enamel. After firing, the enamel turns transparent, like tiny stained glass windows in brilliant colors.

“The alchemy of metal, glass, and fire has always fascinated me,” Tai says. “Designing for plique à jour is a real challenge. Each piece becomes a hands-on operation and is very time consuming.” Each piece Tai makes is one-of-a-kind and many also have movement and flexibility.

Although the technique of plique à jour is a traditional craft, perhaps best known from the works of Art Nouveau jewelers like Rene Lalique, Tai also uses the technology of today in her designs. For her new collection, “Spring,” she uses Rhino CAD-CAM technology to create some of the piercings to hold the enamel, which must be applied painstakingly by hand before firing.

Like her work, Tai’s career has combined fashion flair with painstaking craftsmanship. After beginning her career with high-end jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels and Gemveto, Tai worked designing fashion jewelry for Trifari, Monet, and Liz Claiborne. She also teaches jewelry design and rendering at the Fashion Institute of Technology and Pratt Institute. Several of Tai’s pieces are on display until June 28 at the Forbes Galleries in New York.

As its name suggests, “Spring” is a celebration of flowers and foliage. A praying mantis brooch in 18k gold with tsavorite and blue sapphire has transparent green enamel wings that seem poised for flight.

“My inspiration comes from nature,” Tai says. “What better materials than gold, gems, and beautiful vitreous enamels to pay tribute to life and all creations.”
— Cheryl Kremkow