ModernJeweler.com |

Earth tones, especially brown diamonds in rose gold, are the most important trend from Basel this year. Brands launched new collections in a muted warm palette many are calling “the bronze look.” While some companies have experimented using actual bronze and 18k rose gold combinations, most are opting for a burnished sun-kissed look by using brown diamonds in rose gold, brown rhodium, or brown gold.

Overall, diamonds and gold are as important as usual, but in designs that are more understated than traditional diamond jewelry. The more subdued effect of the brown diamond and rose gold “bronze” looks exemplify the trend toward austere luxury. Collections entering this new bronze age included Roberto Coin, Mattioli, Antonini, Staurino, Mariani, de Grisogono, and Garavelli.

Many designers report that brown styles were very strong through the holiday season and they expect brown to continue to be an important part of the jewelry palette for the foreseeable future.

The earthy influence can also be seen in new collections set with unusual minerals or “genuine stones,” such as common pebbles, agates, jasper, petersite, dendrite crystal, fossils, dinosaur bone, and a host of affordable and attractive alternatives to traditional gemstones. Many were used in natural shapes, but the latest designs set these unusual stones in much the way precious gems are used. In some cases, diamonds and other gemstones are set into the stone.

Classic stones, such as malachite, lapis lazuli, black onyx, tiger’s eye, and white agate continue to be popular too. But the new alternative rock jewelry offers an organic, one-of-a-kind look and a bold scale that makes these styles instant conversational pieces. Designers creating stone looks included Roberto Coin, David Yurman, Tamara Comolli, Gurhan, and Rodney Rayner.

Many new collections used a palette of gold and black, pairing yellow gold with black gold, oxidized silver, or black gemstones, including black diamonds, black spinel, black sapphire, black onyx, ebony, and jet. Golden pearls, citrine, and other golden stones were mixed with black to create this dramatic effect which, again, was a much more subdued holiday look than in past years.

Ironically, many of the Italian and other European collections featured looks inspired by classic American jewelry masters Verdura and Seaman Schepps, whose looks defined good taste and fashion in the 1950s and early 1960s. Many styles featured bold gemstone cabochons and rounded forms, multicolor and tonal gemstone combinations, classic motifs like crosses, oversized rings, dramatic cuff bracelets, collar necklace silhouettes, wood, classic bold links, and shells and nautical motifs.