Left: "Lotus" automatic for women with 180 diamonds by Blancpain, (201) 271-1400. Right: IWC's pilot double chronograph with split-seconds function and high-tech ceramic case, (800) 432-9330.
Louis Erard's "Les Asymetriques" automatic chronograph in steel, (866) 289-9653.
Rising Stars
"Our best selling brands are Tag Heuer, Raymond Weil, and Baume & Mercier, although even those are still up and coming with consumers. Customers recognize the names and appreciate the well-priced product. Louis Erard is really well-priced. Even though the name is not as well known, it sells exceptionally well. Karat gold watches have been a little slow. Two-tone is the better-selling style at the moment."
— Lee Neves, Neves Jewelers, Shrewsbury, New Jersey
Audemars Piguet's 18k rose gold Royal Oak Offshore "Rubens Barrichello" chronograph, (212) 758-8400.
Global Economy
"A funny thing has happened to our watch business, thanks in part to the weak U.S. dollar. We are getting contacted by collectors in Europe who are seeking out particular models. Much of that is due to the fact that we have some rare and limited edition series. Recent calls have come from Spain, Paris, and even Kos, a small island in Greece. In fact, a customer from Kos ordered Audemars Piguet's 18k rose gold ‘Rubens Barrichello' chronograph. We also get calls for styles from IWC, Glashütte, and Blancpain. We added Perrelet to the assortment, too. It's a great value and like Breguet and Jacquet-Droz, it pays homage to a great genius in watchmaking."
— Al Armstrong, Armstrong-Rockwell Jewelers, Hartford, Connecticut
Accutron's automatic mechanical steel chronograph from the "VX-200" collection, (800) 228-5682.
Higher Ground
"Our core business is watches retailing for $150 to $300, but we have seen an uptick in sales of higher priced watches with functions such as chronographs and other complications. Accutron is a prime example, it appeals to well educated, young, thirtysomething professionals. These customers like the heft and quality that Accutron has but at retails less than $1,000. The women's business has been tougher since there are so many brands. Special occasion watches are one segment where women will pay more for them and where quality is something that matters more than a fashion trend."
— Dennis Fouhy, De's, Poughkeepsie
Perrelet's skeleton chronograph with second time zone, (212) 317-8006.
Skeleton Style
"I added Perrelet to our assortment which includes brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Ulysse Nardin, Glashütte, and Blancpain. I was impressed by the quality and value in Perrelet. Their skeleton chrono GMT is a phenomenal deal. I like that the distribution is limited. Clients will find you if you carry what they desire. Perrelet is a stainless steel line, which is the metal that does best for us. We can sell 18k rose gold but for the person who is affluent but not super rich, buying a watch in steel can make a dramatic difference. We have collectors who have as many as 40 complicated watches. They couldn't afford to have all of them in 18k gold, but steel makes them affordable."
— Niresh Rajpersad, East Coast Jewelers, Sunnyhouse Beach, Florida
Parmigiani's "Kalta Tonda" 42mm 18k rose gold watch with
power reserve, small second and date dial, (949) 489-2885.
Upscale and Uunderstated
"Our clients are seeking the best quality and something that is understated—without the stigma of an overblown, highly advertised brand name. Parmigiani is right for this customer because the watches are of the highest caliber of quality. They are rare and provide a guaranteed level of exclusivity. Consumers have become more educated about watches. Ten years ago, they started trading up to brands such as Cartier and Breitling, and now they are taking another step even higher. Fine watches have far greater exposure as status symbols. You can't get into a Bentley wearing a Casio."
— Jeremy Oster, Oster Jewelers, Denver, Colorado
Breitling's chronometer-certified
"Airworld" chronograph with quartz
electronic thermo-compensated super
quartz movement, (800) 641-7343.
Time's Value
"I carry Citizen and Louis Erard, a recent introduction that has great value for the dollar, a Swiss automatic. They've been making great watches since 1931, using sapphire crystal, automatic movements, and excellent straps. People aren't necessarily aware of the company when they walk in the store, but once they see it, it grows on them and becomes a sure favorite. Customers also love our Breitling watches because each one is built like a tank and is a great value. Our Louis Wright watches for women sell very well."
— Mike Turgeon, Turgeon Jewelers, Wethersfield, Connecticut
Rolex's GMT "Master II" in steel and 18k gold, (212) 758-7700.
Gratification Time
"We carry four brands: Rolex, Michele, Cyma, and Montblanc. So far this year we are up about 10 to 15 percent in watches. Rolex continues to be our strongest brand. I've noticed that we are selling more to parents who are buying a watch for a college grad, or a woman buying one for her fiancé's wedding gift. When they spend that type of money on a gift they want it to be something recognizable. Still, we did sell a $22,550 18k white gold Rolex to a client who said no one would really know how much he spent since it was white metal like steel. The value was something he said he got personal gratification from owning."
— Lou Hill, Van Scoy Jewelers, Wyomissing, Pennsylvania
Oceanaut's "Rada Blue" day/date chronograph
in 23k gold plated steel, (310) 372-0457.
Fresh Aapproach
"My store is in the heart of the golden triangle in Beverly Hills so you can imagine it's like the epicenter for high-end watch sales. We specialize in vintage watches with models from the 1970s being most popular now: Rolex, Tag Heuer, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. This is due mainly to the fact that larger size watches are popular now and vintage watches from this era tend to have larger cases, too. Our new watch line is Oceanaut. Our customers know about watch manufacturing so the fact that Oceanaut has well made, affordable looks that they don't see all over the place makes it popular."
— Manuel Leon, Manuel Leon Fine Jewelry & Watches, Beverly Hills, California
Croton's Swiss quartz steel and diamond women's watch
with colored carbon fiber accents, (800) 443-7639.
Service Centered
"Croton watches are doing very well for us. The collection has up-to-date styles, is perceived well and, most important, they have one of the best repair and service departments. We carry seven lines yet one of the reasons Croton is popular is that they offer a lifetime warranty. And should you have a repair, it takes two weeks, not the usual four to six weeks I have experienced with other brands. This offers a phenomenal selling position."
— Sendy Berger, Exclusive Jewelers, Brooklyn, New York
Oceanaut's "Beluza" women's watch in
steel with diamonds, (310) 372-0457.
Sports Hip
"NOA watches are very up and coming and distinctive. This year, we've had luck with Espada and Links of London watches. Men love Reactor watches for their inexpensive prices and hip, sporty look, whereas women love Oceanaut watches, which have a great price point, particularly in the Beluza and Perla styles."
— Susan Fotos, Higashi Pearls and Fine Jewelry, Lemoyne, Pennsylvania